I was always a bit nervous with indigo and had a few failures, trying to make a working vat. Discouraging every time. Not this time. I just gave it another go, using Michel Garcia’s organic vat, using indigo, lime and fructose crystals. And succeeded! I didn’t want to believe it but it really worked and its magic! How the fabric turns from white to green, teal and eventually to blue. The more often the fabric is dipped into the vat, the darker the blue shades that can be achieved.

I also love the idea that the vat can be used over a period of time, but it needs to be a bit looked after, get fed, stirred and if necessary revived!

I used a couple of shibori techniques (folding, clamping and binding) to achieve simple yet very beautiful patterns.

Dyeing in progress, the teal colour will magically turn into dark blue.

 
This one is made with black walnuts bound into the silk and resisted with rubber bands.

Bound with gum nuts, it event took a bit of the colour!

Over dyeing a silk scarf, rust dyed before.

 
This scarf is eco dyed with eucalyptus leaves, then twice dipped into the vat.

And my new pair of cotton indigo socks. Who said socks are boring x mas presents…?

 

 

 

I often get ask about eco prints. People sometimes think they are made using a screen print technique or the colour comes from synthetic dyes. I have taken this as an opportunity to give you a short overview what eco print is and why I am so passionate about it.

Eco print, also known as leaf print, is a direct contact method to make prints, drawing out pigments from plant material onto fabric (and paper) with the help of moisture and time. Moisture in form of heated water can be used either through steam or in a simmering bath; both allow the cloth to accept the dye. The lengths of time of the contact between plant material and fabric will influence the result as well.

eco print on merino fabric

Natural dyes bond particularly well with any protein fibres (silk, wool) and cellulose fibres (cotton, linen) although bonding of pigments with cellulose fibres are usually less strong and vibrant.

Eco prints can be produced from a vast variety of plant materials such as leaves, flower petals, barks and vegetable skins, the selection is endless. Applied mordents (a fixer which ensures colour and light fastness) will have an impact on the outcomes. A mix of different mordents will change the colour of the print. Other factors such as the season and location of plant collection and the mineral content of the water will help shifting and changing colours.

eucalyptus cinerea

This is what excites me about the process; experimenting with these endless combinations to achieve sophisticated and unique prints, often unexpected. Although using a two dimensional technique, the natural and unevenly colours of the prints turn them into a work with a three dimensional impression.

Living in New Zealand I am particular interested in testing eco prints from native plants of the New Zealand bush preliminary on wool and silks. This includes research about plants used by Maori as food and dye source and in traditional medicine. Gathering this old knowledge also helps to understand the world around me.

eco print with lichen

Learning about the alchemy of plants is another important aspect of eco print, but is secondary for my artistic and serendipitous explorations.

As a textile artist I am trying to find new ways of mark making onto fabrics and sometimes onto paper. My desire is to make unique eco prints is a sustainable approach to use traditional dye plants in a new way, as an art form, revealing the invisible.

eco print with ake ake and kanuka

A couple of month ago I started to experiment with other media within my art. I wanted to bring in another component to my work. My work is usually very soft, tactile, light, fragile and sometimes translucent. I was looking at opposed properties such as hard, solid, heavy and dense. Contextual practise is part of my art studies and the perfect opportunity to experiment, trying out new ways of doing and reflecting on the outcomes.

Here are some first experiments inserting flowers and petals into plaster and beeswax. It is interesting to see the decay and what is remaining of the petals, I especially like the negative space of the plaster, once the petals have been wilted and removed.

 
I also experimented with cement, making concrete. These samples are fairly rough and I guess not very strong. I inserted all kinds of fabrics, mostly my own left over pieces like felt or silk threads. I like the hard/soft contrast and wonder how the look will change on a bigger scale? These ones are made in ice cube molds.

I just feel most attracted to concrete and it didnt take me long to understand that I have a connection with this hard, urban, strong material . Being raised in the 70s in East Berlin, concrete was part of my every day live. The house I lived in was made out of concrete, so was my school. My playground were building sites in my neighborhood and not to forget, the Berlin Wall always omnipresent.

In the next couple of weeks I will explore more of the material, see where this path is leading to.